2002 Ski-Doo Hood Repair
Here I will cover my procedure for repairing a Ski-Doo Hood. This is a very flexible urethane hood, and is quite common type of damage. We will also be doing some custom painting to it, so stop back later!
The damage!
There are a number of spider type cracks.
There is also considerable amount of paint that has cracked.
Also some damage by the tie down.
And a shot of the cracks from the inside.
I first clean the plastic with a plastic cleaner such as RM 902, then lightly grind the inside, using a die grinder to "V" out the cracks slightly.
At the end of each crack, I drilled a small hole to relieve any stress.
Using tape to align the fractured pieces. This is a very critical step to achieve a nice cosmetic repair.
Ready to apply the repair material.
Dominion "Plastic Surgery" of the flexible version is the product that I will use for this entire repair. Very strong, great adhesion, and sands extremely nice. You will note that I have also put a mesh into the repair material for greater strength. After it set up, I sanded it lightly and applied another coat to cover the mesh completely.
A picture of the front side, after the repair material has set up. You will see that the pieces line up nice, and the repair material is peeking through the cracks and holes.
You can see how I "V'd" the cracks all the way down to the repair material on the inside, and feathered the paint back past the point where any repair material will be applied. For feathering I used 180 grit. I do not like to get too course of grit as that can lead to adhesion problems and fuzzy plastic strings that will haunt you latter. To V the plastic I use a die grinder with a carbide V or cone shaped bit.
And the bottom of the hood.
And the repair material applied for the cosmetic repair of the hood. RM-902 was again used to clean the plastic before applying the Plastic Surgery. If the plastic of your hood is black, a adhesion promoter will also need to be used.
It is better to apply multiple thin layers than one heavy layer of repair material. Just about ready to prime.
Note the feathering of the existing paint work. The finer the paper you use for finishing this, the less chance of sand scratch swelling. I started with 180 and finished in 320 grit.
The hood primed and ready to paint.
